IC Chiller install & review

[fubar569]

Maybe I should try this vacuum filling the coolant thing...

 

[Unholy707]

Yeah I wasn’t a believer but when I got it all installed it sold me. I think I might get it cooler than most, but those are with the drag valve

 

[Unholy707]

Maybe I should try this vacuum filling the coolant thing...

It’s the ONLY way to do it. You’ll never get all of the air out of the IC bricks if you don’t

 

[Unholy707]

That’s why there’s a bleeder valve on the water manifold. Just vacuum fill it. Oem tools. Great tool. Amazon

 

[Unholy707]

I used a cheap harbor freight one and it was garbage and broke

 

[Unholy707]

Oem tools one I’ve used 5 times already

 

[Jonwrong]

There has been good information in this thread., so I am back with some questions while I try to sort some things out.

1. On the OEM redeye interchiller setup, my understand is the chiller does not do anything until you turn it on in Uconnect. Is this correct? Then, it diverts all cooling from the cabin to the chiller brick.

2. The IC Chiller pushes freon to both the chiller and the cabin HVAC by default. Putting the car into chiller mode in Unconnect diverts all cooling to the chiller. I can confirm this is how mine works.

3. There is a sensor on the OEM chiller that reads the position of a plunger attached to the valve at the chiller for the freon. The IC Chiller valve does not have that plunger, and they have you just bolt the sensor to the chassis and leave. What does this valve do in the OEM application? Are we tricking it into always thinking it is one stave versus another? And, which state is it in? I could not find this information anywhere.

 

[Unholy707]

I would give IC chiller a buzz or shoot them an email, they usually answer quickly

 

[Detroitboy]

From where, vibrant?

No from IC

 

[Detroitboy]

There has been good information in this thread., so I am back with some questions while I try to sort some things out.

1. On the OEM redeye interchiller setup, my understand is the chiller does not do anything until you turn it on in Uconnect. Is this correct? Then, it diverts all cooling from the cabin to the chiller brick.

2. The IC Chiller pushes freon to both the chiller and the cabin HVAC by default. Putting the car into chiller mode in Unconnect diverts all cooling to the chiller. I can confirm this is how mine works.

3. There is a sensor on the OEM chiller that reads the position of a plunger attached to the valve at the chiller for the freon. The IC Chiller valve does not have that plunger, and they have you just bolt the sensor to the chassis and leave. What does this valve do in the OEM application? Are we tricking it into always thinking it is one stave versus another? And, which state is it in? I could not find this information anywhere.

On my setup simply putting it into track mode stops putting cold air into the cabin. I then can push the chiller button on the screen although I dont know that it makes any difference once all ac is diverted from the cabin.

 

[rookerrobert]

I love my IC chiller now just to get my fuel problem resolved....lol

 

[Jonwrong]

So, I will answer my own question.

1. There are two valves on the OEM RE setup. One that controls freon to the cabin and one to the chiller. If you turn on the chiller, it turns off the cabin and allows the chiller to work. The chiller is off unless you turn it in. The aftermarket companies just move that sensor/trigger to the side. Hence, theirs are on always if HVAC is on. Putting your car into chiller only mode with the aftermarket setup just turns off the cabin HVAC (for redeyes).

2. I was right. See number 1.

3. See 3, above.

 

[1Thawk797]

Dang it. Too loose? Hand tight then snugged tight using two 8" wrenches. Or just bad ones from Amazon?

 

[2ndgen]

Hand snug then 1/4 turn. Both mating surfaces need to be perfectly clean.

 

[Jonwrong]

Dang it. Too loose? Hand tight then snugged tight using two 8" wrenches. Or just bad ones from Amazon?

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AN fittings are a lot more temperamental than most people think. You are trying to get it to seal with just metal on metal. Always make sure the surfaces are clean and spread a little new motor oil on the flare before assembling. It's good to start out snugging them up and applying some force. If there is a leak, you can go tighter. For -12AN, you can actually go to 40 ft/lbs. To do this accurately, use a torque wrench with a crow's foot clocked at 90 degrees to the wrench handle. (There are tutorials for this.) I have had to go to 40 to get something to stop leaking before.

That being said, all AN fittings are not created equal. I have used Amazon ones that would NEVER form a leak proof seal. I like RaceFlux for quality without an insane price. I have never had an issue with one of their fittings. Plus, they do some clever stuff here and there. Like, their caps have the flare but include an O-ring for added backup. Good luck man!

 

[2ndgen]

None of my raceflux AN fittings have leaked. I only have a few from Earl's but they seem to be of good quality also.

 

[Unholy707]

Dang it. Too loose? Hand tight then snugged tight using two 8" wrenches. Or just bad ones from Amazon?

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1/4" turn at least. I have the same exact fittings and they still leak no matter what. They might finally be ok. I don't think the temperature fluctuations help

 

[Unholy707]

This is with vibrant fittings, so not cheap ones.

 

[Unholy707]

I'll never use AN fittings ever again for coolant

 

[Unholy707]

I'm redoing mine this weekend. Keeps leaking past the PTFE paste under the paste through the threads. I have Loctite 567 now, should take care of it. Also cutting off the other fixed 90 degree fitting on the right side so I can spin it and put on another pivoting npt to 12an fitting (I have the old style brick). Installed an adjustable one on the left side so that I can move it where I need it and I'm happy with it, actually not leaking on the AN flare side there that goes to a female 45 degree barb