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2ndAmend

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#1
...
 


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CPO Super stock

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#2
I have been debating starting this, but here goes:

First comments on the 170:

Since the snow finally melted I was able to put about 260mi on the 170 so far. It likes to hold the rpm high, and I can't force an upshift like the RE Stage 2 allows. It is a bit annoying.

Took the RE out of mothballs today, drove the same roads as the 170 and it was a slap of reality how the RE felt every imperfection in the road, and we have nothing but imperfections because of our very harsh winter. The 170 rode very softly and was MUCH more comfortable! This was an unexpected surprise!
no way.. there is a guy on the other forum that would swore you died twice driving on drag radials.. Congrats on the miles... enjoy it!
 


vortecd

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#3
I have been debating starting this, but here goes:

First comments on the 170:

Since the snow finally melted I was able to put about 260mi on the 170 so far. It likes to hold the rpm high, and I can't force an upshift like the RE Stage 2 allows. It is a bit annoying.

Took the RE out of mothballs today, drove the same roads as the 170 and it was a slap of reality how the RE felt every imperfection in the road, and we have nothing but imperfections because of our very harsh winter. The 170 rode very softly and was MUCH more comfortable! This was an unexpected surprise!
170 has softer springs and the 17' wheels with taller tires will also give a softer ride. I have Demon springs in my car and you can feel the difference
 


jgilj

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#4
They are a joy too drive, hanging in gear I agree is not my cup of tea either.
 


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#5
Can't force an upshift? No paddles? No slapshift?
 


cole3986

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#6
The car is outrageously fun to drive and race. Greasy track? no problem, launch in 2nd gear, cool down the IC over the run, no problem, just push a button, burn out without power braking, no problem engage the line lock.

Some tune them, some racers have sold them (Demology), I don't understand either. Herman had to use Silva's 170 to the race the corvette, what is that all about.
 


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#7
I did not know it had echo mode? thought red key only.
 


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2ndAmend

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Thread Starter #8
Red key only, but Eco available! Who knows what they were thinking...
 


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#9
These cars are amazing if left completely showroom stock. I have put 500 break in miles on mine 3 times with the OEM wheels and tires on it. The first 500 the car was untouched. Only reccomendation I have is to inflate the front OEM tires to 50 PSI and run E85 if you can get it at the pump or wherever. I personally would not put aftermarket wheels and tires because I have found that if you drive easy the stuff will last long enough. And, if I DO happen to floor it I want the car to hook better. I suspect with a treaded Street tire on the back you cannot ever go full throttle for any length of time and truly be in control. Maybe I am wrong.......

PS: I did not know the car had ECO mode. I would definately use that if I had known. Thank you.
 


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Thread Starter #10
These cars are amazing if left completely showroom stock. I have put 500 break in miles on mine 3 times....
How did you do that? 3 engines?
 


DRAGRCR

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#11
Like I said, I'm saving the MT's for the dragway. I have heard the MT's are treacherous if you get caught in the rain so I got the 555r2's for daily driving. I don't think they are exactly a "street" tire! ;)

The MT fronts looked a bit scary so I got AS for fronts.

Let me know what you think of eco.
With the ET Streer R's the speed limit in medium rain is 45. With the OEM Version I would think it would be higher. Maybe 55-60. I posted a video driving my 18 DEMON in the rain and the car consistently lost traction at the drive wheels above 45. I think I had 315/50's on there at the time.

The OEM Fronts look flat at 32-35PSI. I put them up to 50 and they look better and the car drives much better. But they are soft and will ge cut by road Dabris a lot easire. One of my rears has a chunk out of it that is superficial. OEM fronts are HEAVY. They weigh as much or nearly as much as an 18 OEM front. It's crazy. Jim Wilder showed me on his Phone what 2 tires they were derived from and they liked the way the heavier tire drove. I would never race on them but they are not bad for the street.

I rarely drive on the street anymore, but will try ECO if I do.

500 miles on the first motor. 500 miles on the second motor. 500 miles on the new Diff. I also put 500 miles on my first 2 D170's, #1660 and #151. So I have seen a decent amount of street miles ENJOYING every mile to the max. #151 I put the 500 miles using my Race wheels and tires because that car came with CF wheels (which were the nicest OEM wheels I have ever had).
 


DRAGRCR

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#12
I had to search for this one.........

 


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I was pleasantly surprised how well the 170 drives when I got mine. I was very worried I wouldn't like it, and for what it cost LOVE it, but figured I could sell it if I hated it.

It drives better on the street than my Hellcat did, and is faster and easier to go faster at the track. Kinda crazy honestly.

I've got Michelin PS4 tires on the back of mine, I can't remember the size but I think they're OEM on some Porsche SUVs. It hooks SHOCKINGLY well and the traction control programming seems a lot more advanced than it did in my Hellcat. I see Mr. Squiggles blink here and there at WOT but I never "feel" it lose power like I did in the Hellcat. I asked Jim Wilder about that and he said "the calibration engineers worked a long time on that".

I've not noticed the gears holding a higher RPM.....maybe I thought it's due to the 3.09 gears. 4,000 miles on mine now.
 


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#14
Do you use the default transbrake torque profiles at the track?

Are you sold on transbrake over foot braking?

I'm at almost 900mi now, so it'll be a couple of weeks before I get the track. I want to prepare.

Thanks.
looking fwd to your results and experience.
 


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Thread Starter #15

DRAGRCR

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#16
Do you use the default transbrake torque profiles at the track?

Are you sold on transbrake over foot braking?

I'm at almost 900mi now, so it'll be a couple of weeks before I get the track. I want to prepare.

Thanks.
The trans brake ONLY reduces power. It's only purpose is to get you down a marginal track. I just made passes in a dead stock D170 at Rockingham, tires and all. The Owners let me do whatever I wanted. So, I gave it my best shot and the car chattered/wheelhopped the tires. Next pass I was able to get a 9.35 out of it, which is a PB for that car. Rich from Radford was there working with the Owner and they got the car down to 9.39 that night in better DA. I think if you really worked with the Torque curve you can likely do better than 9.39 and Rich was talking like he could get 9 20's out of it. But if you were on Prep that would dead hook I think the car would be the fastest. Just so you know Radford Torque curve starts out horizontal at 550 and for 3 increments and then DROPS for a bit and then goes on up. Interesting. And they said that only works with the ET Street R's. The Pro bracket radials want a different curve. I suppose if you really really practice with the Trans Brake you could compete with it and it would be pretty reliable on the hook, but put up much slower times. I never run default curves except maybe C in a no prep. But you won't win, again because you will be slow.

OK the NEW CAL is out. 69C. Go to your Dealer and GET IT. Call and they may even come to your house. This also happens to fix a lot of the issues with shifting coming off the Trans Brake.......as well as MANY other things.

The Wheel beads being bare is standard practice. Weld has the best knurling. It's like screw threads rolled into the aluminum. Real knurling. PS: They will do other wheels. Not just their own. Just so you know the factory wheels will not hold the tire. It will still move a bunch. 22PSI and higher will help but you will spin.
 


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Good to know info Ron. Thanks
 


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I've got to get out and play with the TB more in mine, but most racing I'm in is not really heads up, but bracket or index so all you really need to do is set the car up to hit the same time consistently for the track surface. After that it's down to RT which I "think" the TB will help a lot with since your foots to the floor, throttle body open, and you're just releasing a paddle?

So far I hit my best time 2nd gear launch with foot brake - 9.29. Track prep was junk TNT so TB just blew the tires off when I tried it in B map. C would launch but was way slower, never tried A.
 


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I think most people don't want to spend the time to learn the TB. It's not complicated, but keeping good notes on settings will definitely help.
 


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That's the point of TB...being able to literally adjust on the fly. It's pretty granular....see the car in front of you spin, tap the down button and take out 50ft lbs at the hit.
 




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