Audio upgrade questions

[Scatpack2023]

Sometimes it's cheaper to pay more for something better in the beginning.

Covidcommander, absolutely, I agree with that! I actually was ready to spend even more on the JL Audio Stealth box but after in depth research, many issues surface in my application due to the Bilstein adaptive suspension module mounted where the Stealth box would reside and all of the issues that creates, otherwise I probably would have spent even more. Back to the HK twin sub oem box versus the JL Audio powered sub. The question I had to consider is does one actually sound or perform better, or last longer than the other regardless of price? When it comes to the powered JL, it seems to have a pretty good record, and it is all new with a warranty. The HK even new would have to be modified, still no warranty and would it actually perform any better? Just alot of unknowns there with each choice. Hopefully I made the best decision. Will see here soon!

 

[Diboblo]

I went down that rabbit hole.

Bought, modified and installed the HK dual sub box. Ran it for a little while. Rated at about 75 watts RMS, it does a good job of delivering what I call "fill" bass. It won't wow you. It just fixes that low end imaging that some systems need.

I am retarded, however. A long time bass head. So... it wasn't long before I gave the entire box the beans. New 10" low profile subs, gutted the OEM wiring, inside the box (including connector) wired the new dvc subs in parallel, then series, for a 2 ohm total load. Pushed it with a Kicker 400.1 Class D amp and walked away.

Man... what a raging animal that system is, now. Not obnoxious, but it is exactly what I wanted.

I recently upgraded to a more efficient Class D Mosfet amp. Still in the tuning stages, but the imaging is already much better

I've had it both ways and was very happy with the first iteration. However, as most here know, I'm the resident mad scientist and can't keep my hands off anything electronic, for long. LOL

Looking forward to seeing the OP installation and always glad to see constrictive conversations, here.

 

[Scatpack2023]

I went down that rabbit hole.

Bought, modified and installed the HK dual sub box. Ran it for a little while. Rated at about 75 watts RMS, it does a good job of delivering what I call "fill" bass. It won't wow you. It just fixes that low end imaging that some systems need.

I am retarded, however. A long time bass head. So... it wasn't long before I gave the entire box the beans. New 10" low profile subs, gutted the OEM wiring, inside the box (including connector) wired the new dvc subs in parallel, then series, for a 2 ohm total load. Pushed it with a Kicker 400.1 Class D amp and walked away.

Man... what a raging animal that system is, now. Not obnoxious, but it is exactly what I wanted.

I recently upgraded to a more efficient Class D Mosfet amp. Still in the tuning stages, but the imaging is already much better

I've had it both ways and was very happy with the first iteration. However, as most here know, I'm the resident mad scientist and can't keep my hands off anything electronic, for long. LOL

Looking forward to seeing the OP installation and always glad to see constrictive conversations, here.

Hello Diboblo,
Very interesting! Wishing I could have heard all iterations of your HK system. All I can go by is what the entire HK system sounded like in my first 2023 Challenger. Honestly I wasn't wanting for any changes in it. I couldn't find another Scat Pack last call Challenger with the different equipment I wanted and also with the HK stereo. If I could have I wouldn't be changing or adding a thing. That's the way it goes. Hoping the 10 speaker Alpine with this JL Audio ACS110LG-TW1 will give me comparable sound. If I may, would you care to comment on the patch connection to the 8 inch free air dual voice coil wiring in the rear deck. Some say leave the 8 inch sub disconnected. Others say leave it connected. Some say connect one voice call positive and negative to left channel input of JL amp and other voice coil positive and negative to right channel input of JL amp. How would you do it? Have you ever checked the voltage output available to the sub at high volume levels with the oem HK or Alpine system in the Charger or Challenger? One person mentioned with this specialized JL amp and very low ohm sub is designed to run on max 5.4 volts connected to high level signal. This was a specification I've never considered or thought about before.

 

[covidcommander]

Hello Diboblo,
Very interesting! Wishing I could have heard all iterations of your HK system. All I can go by is what the entire HK system sounded like in my first 2023 Challenger. Honestly I wasn't wanting for any changes in it. I couldn't find another Scat Pack last call Challenger with the different equipment I wanted and also with the HK stereo. If I could have I wouldn't be changing or adding a thing. That's the way it goes. Hoping the 10 speaker Alpine with this JL Audio ACS110LG-TW1 will give me comparable sound. If I may, would you care to comment on the patch connection to the 8 inch free air dual voice coil wiring in the rear deck. Some say leave the 8 inch sub disconnected. Others say leave it connected. Some say connect one voice call positive and negative to left channel input of JL amp and other voice coil positive and negative to right channel input of JL amp. How would you do it? Have you ever checked the voltage output available to the sub at high volume levels with the oem HK or Alpine system in the Charger or Challenger? One person mentioned with this specialized JL amp and very low ohm sub is designed to run on max 5.4 volts connected to high level signal. This was a specification I've never considered or thought about before.

I saw directions for using the powered sub on here with a separate amp. Seems like that would be the way to go. Was thinking about adding it to my 6 speaker charger. Sounds horrible stock compared to the hk.